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 Wurlitzer Electric Pianos 


  • 1/14/02: See my removable keyboard modification, as well as the third-knob mod.

    The model 200-series Wurlitzer electric pianos were constructed around 1970 and represent some of the most sought after tone in jazz and popular music. The most popular model of these pianos is the Model 200A, a portable road-ready electric piano (cost ~$400 to $1000). The tone of these electric pianos is very mellow and almost harp-like when the keys are pressed gently, but becomes very pleasantly overdriven when they are stuck with more force. These instruments are rather dynamic because of this overdriving and sound very good with almost any instrument, especially guitar.

    The particular pictures below are of the Model 214, which is almost exactly like the model 200, except it has a console below it (removable). The console contains (4) 8", 22-ohm woofers, which provide a generous amount of sound compared to the two small 4"x6" speakers in the model 200. The keyboard part of the 214 is somewhat removable, but requires removal of screws (see my removable keyboard mod), and would require an external sustain pedal if used without its console.

    The 200-series have a very complicated piano-like action (many intricate wooden lever arms, felt bumpers, see pic below), but strike small steel reeds instead of strings. The largest reed is approximately 2" long, the shortest, 3/4". Each reed forms a capacitor with a charged metal plate near by. The "capacitor" output is amplified by a preamp stage and an amplfier stage before feeding the speakers. There are two resistors in the amplifier stage which get very hot. They are both 200-ohm, 1-watt and 5-watt units. I replaced each of these with two 100-ohm, 10-watt resistors in series from radio shack (see above pic indicating in blue where the resistors now are), and now the Wurlitzer gets louder without distorting and runs longer before heating up a lot. Each pair of resistors now dissipates 20 watts of power (instead of 5).

    My future plans for this instrument are to make it a detachable keyboard and add a lot of peripherals. I want to take out the screws that hold the keyboard portion on and replace them with 4 latches so you can take it apart in seconds without removing screws. I want to add another amplifier in the speaker cabinet, as well as some kind of Moog-like synthesizer controls, probably all analog, some good echo/reverb/delay, a compander, flange, an EQ, and maybe some other tricks. I think it would be nifty to add an expression pedal or two to the console so you can control some effects with you foot. This model has a hidden pull-out writing tray under the right side of the keyboard that would make a good spot for a bunch of controls. I want to keep the installation "stealth" so you can tell it's modified (any expression pedals would be noticeable, though).


  • Model 214: View of the Model 214 Wurlitzer.

    Model 214: View of the inside console without the front soundboard. Two 8" 22-ohm speakers are visible and deliver sound out of the rear of the console. Note power cord in console that detaches from keyboard. Plenty of room for peripherals!

    Model 214: Picture of inside of keyboard with metal guard above the reeds removed. Amplifier is visible in the front above the keys. Note the large white power resistors installed to descrease distortion (see above mod).

    Model 214: View of the front soundboard from behind. Two more 8" 22-ohm speakers are visible here as well as the tape in/out and phono output plate (upper left).

    Model 214: Picture of complete model 214 wurlitzer at home next to my home made guitar box, the Greenback212, and modified Dynaco Mark IV amp.

    Model 214: Picture of the rather complicated, piano-like action from the side view.
  • Here is an .mp3 sound clip of one of my songs, called "WurlitzerAndGuitar.mp3", that uses a Wurlitzer model 214 (console) recorded through the phono output jack, a telecaster thinline with active pickups played clean, and a bass guitar played clean. File size is 3.48Mb, ~3.5 minutes long.

  • The Removable Keyboard mod & Third-knob mod

    I wanted a way to make the keyboard completely separatable from the console for ease of transportation. I also wanted a way to use the keyboard without having the console present. Both of these goals were met as defined below. Next, I wanted a way to change the tone of the wurlitzer to some extent, so I added a third knob which controls the "bite" or "edge" of the attack on the keys. It very effective and adds a variable hardness to the edge of the notes. This potentiometer is in series with a small capacitor and forms a high pass filter which boosts the highs in the preamp of the circuit. I want to install a fourth knob for reverb eventually.

    (click on an image to expand it 4x)

    Model 214: View of the Model 214 Wurlitzer with amp and keys removed.

    Model 214: View of the keybaord without the amp or damper cover.

    Model 214: A surrealist pool table which can be used as a keyboard!

    Model 214: View of 1 of 2 unpainted latches in place.

    Model 214: View of the modified inside of the keyboard (front removed). The black and gray material is acoustic absorption material. The power strip is visible on the left. I modified it so that 4 of the 6 outlets are turned on and off by a hidden switch.

    Model 214: This is the console with the keyboard removed. On the top right side of the frame, you can see the switch that controls the 4 outlets on the power strip.

    Model 214: This is the front baffle piece with its acoustic abportion material installed. I also electrically modified the input/output panel on the front and will install a directbox eventually.

    Model 214: This is the bottom of the keyboard with wood support pieces added that ensure the keyboard fits onto the console properly. I removed the slide-out tray on the upper right (especially since I'm left-handed!). The power input is visible on the far left about mid way up. It is a computer-style power receptacle to facilitate removal of the power cord! In the very center of the keyboard is the DIN receptacle that is the outputs for the speakers.

    Model 214: This is how I got the third potentiometer installed. I had to fabricate an aluminum bracket to fit over the old steel bracket that would rigidly support the new pot along with space for a fourth one. On the right of the amplifier, you can see the new power supply capacitors I installed in place of the old one.

    Model 214: View of the nearly complete keyboard with the nuclear-power-plant-like induced surperfluous 3rd knob.

    For the next few ideas, I want to install a 6L6 tube power amp that will power the speakers when the hidden switch is turned on. This will take most of the stress off of the old amp, plus give me more power for the speakers. I would like to add some kind of reverb to the system and possibly add a fourth knob for that. I think it would be slick to get a Hughes & Kettner Rotosphere tube Leslie and implement a stereo tube amp.


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